Kosovo-3

It is an easy day trip, even on foot from Peja. You’ll need to carry your passport with you and possibly have to give it to the police outside of the monastery.  The setting itself is very calm, however there have been some attempts to burn down this historic building, which has resulted in the police verifying the identities of everyone who enters the property.  From the Patriarchy of Peja, you can see the beauty of the Rugova mountains with its dazzling streams and views, even if you don’t have much time in Peja.

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If you’re into hiking, you will want to spend at least 2 days hiking in the Rugova canyon and the surrounding Accursed Mountains. It’s even possible to do a climbing course / via ferrata Ari for an epic view of the canyon.  Similarly, there’s just a lot of hiking in the Rugova canyon and a lot of beautiful waterfalls.   

Without a car, this area is harder difficult to access, however hitchhiking down the main road is possible (according to others) with a lot of patience for waiting... (We were not successful.)  There are some other stunning areas along the road between Peja and the Montenegro border, however you’ll need to plan where you want to go accordingly as there are specific entry points to various “famous” areas in the National Park, including Gjeravica (the second tallest mountain in Kosovo).  We did not give ourselves enough time to do proper hiking in the Accursed Mountains in Kosovo, but there’s also some mountaineering possible for those interested in more intense outdoor activities in Kosovo.

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One of the prettiest waterfalls in Kosovo is White Drin Waterfall (Ujëvara e Drinit të Bardhë).  This beautiful waterfall (and one of the largest waterfalls in Kosovo) is about 20 minutes from Peja by car, but it is easy to spend most of a day here.  ​

It’s possible by mini-bus (which doesn’t run often) or hitch-hiking towards Fierze [plus walking].  We struggled to find this waterfall until we realize that you had to pass directly through one of Peja’s best restaurants, Ujvara e Drinit, which has situated itself directly before the waterfall. The food at this restaurant is exceedingly fresh with massive portions and you’ll want to have the smoked trout if you eat here. The White Drin Waterfall is one of the most beautiful places to visit in Peja--and certainty one that you’ll not want to miss.  The surrounding water has a beautiful color and it’s especially beautiful in autumn.

After walking near the top of the waterfall, you can follow a sign to the newly opened Radac Caves (Shpella e Radacit)  These beautiful caves, known as the Sleeping Beauty caves, are home to hundreds of bats. It’s possible to explore the public areas with a reservation.  It is also possible to go caving in the underground canyon (which is still being explored and mapped out). However, you must make a reservation at least 2 days beforehand to allow them to get the equipment. Cave spelunking (with a private guide who speaks quite good English) costs about 20 euros. (Click for more information about caving in Kosovo).

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The Decani Monastery is another Serbian UNESCO protected monument in Kosovo. The monastery dates back to the 1300s and is one of the most well protected monuments as a result of the various arson attempts to destroy it. The Decani Monastery has some of the best preserved frescos of the Serbian Orthodox monasteries in Kosovo, so it is worth a visit. You will need to give your passport to the NATO troops at the checkpoint prior to entry. It’s a possible day trip from Peja although it’s probably best to stop off in Decani en route from Peja to Gjakova.

Gjakova

This market town has a really interesting laid back vibe. If you’re traveling from Peja to Prizren, it’s likely that you’ll transfer (or at least pass through) Gjakova by bus.  Gjakovë is famous for the oldest bazaar in Kosovo [Grand Bazaar] (although it’s partially rebuilt now). There’s something so charming about the beautiful wood lined stalls with artisans showing off their crafts and the many cozy cafes to sip coffee in as night falls. (It's pronounced like Jack-o-va.)

 If you’re not entirely sold on Kosovo, you need to spend even one hour strolling the romantic and wide Çarshia e Madhe to soak in the culture and architecture.  Unfortunately, the main street of the Grand Bazaar in Gjakova was partially destroyed in World War I, World War II, and during the Kosovo War, however the residents have come back following a mass exodus of the population during the war.  Gjakova has many artisans that specialize in horse related crafts if you’re looking for a unique gift to bring home with you although there’s no shortage of shops in this historic Balkan trading town.

Most important of all is the Hadum Mosque, which dates back to the 1500s. This incredible beautiful and ornate mosque is built in a classic Islamic-Kosovar style, but its ornate paintings all over amazed me. We had visited several mosques by this point, but the ornate decorations lining the dome certainly amazed me. The most famous mosque of Gjakove is typically open day time to tourists, so however it’s good to say hi to the friendly imam who welcomes anyone into his mosque.  

Non-muslim women aren’t required to wear a hijab although appropriate dress is still important , but it’s considerate to cover your hair when entering a mosque. Part of the mosque, including the historic library, was destroyed during the war, but they are slowly restoring the building to its pre-war beauty.

It is also possible to visit some of the preserved homes of traditional homes, including the home ofAbdullah Pashë Dreni.  He was an Albanian tribal leader and a member of the Ottoman army, however his home boasts traditional Kosovo style architecture and artifacts. (We spotted a cute kitty there too!)

Day Trip from Gjakova

Rahovec is where Kosovo’s best wines are produced. We tried Kosovo wine while we were in Kosovo and it was very tasty.  You can visit with a tour for a day trip from Gjakova and/or on your own if you call the wineries in advance to arrange a visit. More about Kosovo’s wineries here.

Prizren

Prizren is one of the most beautiful cities in Kosovo and the second that you arrive, you’ll understand why anyone who visits only Pristina is missing out on one of Kosovo’s most beautiful places. Prizren is a historic city in the southern part of Kosovo. Those passing through Kosovo from Macedonia are likely to travel through Prizren, which makes it an important transfer point for Balkan buses.

Prizren itself was mostly untouched by the Kosovo war, however the areas around Prizren suffered. However, Prizren is considered to be one of Kosovo’s most diverse cities in terms of ethnicities, which makes Prizren a nice introduction to Kosovo in terms of food/culture/history/nature.  You’ll also find many historic ruins around the city for history lovers.

Any visitor to Prizren cannot miss Prizren fortress(Kaljaja) for an free and epic view over the city.  It’s best to visit close to sunset.  The Kaljaja dates back to medieval times and was built by the Byzantines with some later renovations from the Ottomans.   I found it fascinating to wander around its spacious grounds and to sit on the edge enjoying the best view of Prizren. ​

On your way up to the fortress, you may pass the entrance to the Church of the Holy Savior, a Serbian Orthodox church viewable from the fortress which dates back to the 1300s. It was set on fire in 2004 and as a result, it may not be open for visitors when when you visit Prizren.  There is a gate and a security guard, however if the security guard is not there, you cannot enter the church property. ​

One another must-see in Prizren (and Kosovo) is the historic and iconic Stone Bridge (Ura e Gurit) of Prizren. This bridge was originally built back to the 1500s, however heavy floods in the 1970s destroyed it. The locals rebuilt it with love and it serves as the major pedestrian bridge in Prizren.

Those interested in Kosovo’s cultural heritage will want to visit the Sinan Pasha Mosque.  It is an Ottoman style mosque dating back to the 1600s, however this large mosque is also said to be built with parts of a nearby Serbian monastery that fell into disrepair. Some of its paintings have faded due to water damage.

Most locals and tourists hang out in the main part of the city at night, which has a lively bar/cafe culture around the square surrounding Sheshi i Shadervanit. We were also lucky enough to spot a wild hedgehog, which made its way into the city centre (somehow).  

Thanks to the recommendation of our hosts at Driza’s House, we ended up visiting a small local traditional restaurant (with amazing food) at the top of the stairs above the movie theatre DokuKino with live traditional Albanian music (and dancing) on the night that we were there. Most cafes in Prizren typically play modern Albanian music and some standard European music, so we enjoyed this cafe.

We stayed at Driza’s House, which is a small hostel with a lot of character. It’s run by a young Albanian couple, one of whom grew up in the very house that you’re staying in.  It’s ridiculously clean and social. If you’re looking for a personal memorable experience, stay here.  We found the owners so helpful in terms of figuring out logistics for Kosovo.  ​

Note: There are easy bus connections to Skopje from Prizren and Pristina from Prizren.

Weekend trips from Prizren & Day trips from Prizren

Prevalla is one of the easiest day trips from Prizren up into the mountains from Prizren, possible with a day trip from Prizren.  If it’s a weekday, you can catch a minibus early in the morning (be sure to ask the last time) as students come down from Prevalla to Prizren.  The bus does not run on Sundays, however it is possible to get out here by taxi/hitch-hiking.

Once you get into the main town, you’ll want to follow the road out of the town towards these GPS coordinates (42°09'53.9"N 20°58'23.4"E). You’ll find a beautiful mountain stream leading up to the top of Prevalle’s Rock.  There is not a formal path, so you may need to hop over the mountain stream.  There is a delicious Turkish restaurant for after your hike.  It's very quiet out here, but there may be some couples/families hiking alongside you on the weekends.

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